It blasts more fermented pungency than plenty of versions I’ve tried in the SGV. “You should get the stinky tofu too.” I take her playful dare, and I eat it with pickled vegetables between bites of beef roll and soy milk. “Oh, so you like Taiwanese food!” she says. When I order o ah jian - layered with textures in a swirl of omelet, oysters and sweet potato starch that firms into a gel when it cooks - it amuses our server. The long menu channels many of the most popular sunrise street foods in Taiwan: oblong baked savory pastries filled with ropy threads of pork or egg or braised beef and mustard greens turnip cakes, steamed dumplings and jiu cai he zi (pan-fried hand pies plump with sliced leeks, scrambled egg and vermicelli noodles) variations of fan tuan, its tubes of sticky rice filled with greens or meats and, on almost every table, bowls of hot soy milk with long, crackling youtiao for dipping. (Maria Alejandra Cardona / Los Angeles Times)Īt breakfast, with the temperatures outside already rising, the destination one morning is a booth in the back of Taiwan Deli’s cool, dark room. Taiwan Deli is a destination for Taiwanese breakfast in Vegas' Chinatown. When it’s mealtime I mostly steer my car west to Spring Mountain Road. (That said, Roy Choi’s Best Friend in Park MGM is one that’s worth planning ahead for a reservation.) I already know how good we have it back home. Also, the compelling restaurant openings lately often come from L.A.
When it comes to dining, though, the relentless crowds and the corporate sheen, thicker than ever, have me looking for exit ramps. These days I’ll rest my head at a Strip hotel and stick around for, say, a Silk Sonic concert. So eating well in Chinatown is no sudden revelation: It’s more that the district has reached a competitive pinnacle of superior options in every tier of dining. Beyond restaurants, tenants included a real estate office, a wedding chapel and a 99 Ranch Market.Ī quarter century later, nearly two dozen shopping centers dot the surrounding landscape. Their aim was specific: They created the plaza to serve visiting Asians and Las Vegas' growing Asian American population. They lined roofs with Taiwanese ceramic tiles and installed a paifang inspired by Tang Dynasty architecture as a gateway entrance. Chen and Henry Hwan the trio were high school classmates in Taiwan. Its young existence began with the 1995 opening of Chinatown Plaza, built by James Chen and two business partners, K.C. “Asiatown” would be a far more accurate descriptor, but the area’s name has a precedent. (Maria Alejandra Cardona / For The Times/Los Angeles Times) The gate to Chinatown Plaza on Spring Mountain Road in Las Vegas.
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